When it comes to restaurants, the term ‘newer is better’ is rarely true given the fact that, in order to stand the test of time an old establishment must be doing something right. As with elsewhere in Cyprus, in Larnaca restaurants remodel, change hands or simply close down on a frequent basis, so the fact that Grada Tavern has been around for decades suggested there is a reason for this. We just had to find out for ourselves what that reason is.
Many believe that you have to go to the centre of town to find a good eatery, but old taverns in the surrounding villages are seeing a resurgence in popularity. This is down to a number of factors, but most importantly, they tend to give more emphasis to the quality of the food itself, and prices are a bit cheaper.
Grada Tavern is not a place you will stumble on by chance. Located in the village of Oroklini, a few minutes’ drive away from the Dhekelia Road, the humble little restaurant has remained unchanged both on the outside and inside for decades.
It sits on the corner of a residential street and, with a number of plant pots and modest seating area on the porch, you could be forgiven for thinking it was just another house on the street, were it not for the large, old school sign with the restaurant’s name on it.
Even the menus bring with them nostalgia, as a brown leather bound booklet with laminated pages come your way, with a number of the dishes even hand written. When it came to choosing, mushrooms cooked in garlic and mint butter was the standout option for starter. Tender, flavoursome and rich. It was a good job it came with a few slices of bread in order to make use of any of the sauce that got away.
Then there was the grilled halloumi which was faultless, as well as a Greek salad which was full of freshness. Much had been said about the incredible seafood of Grada so the option of a Salmon steak stood out for a main course. Made in a spicy tomato sauce with rice and vegetables, the tenderness of the dish stood out, cooked to perfection – not overcooked to the point it was chewy but enough so that it was rare.
My friend tucked into a stifado which by all means was also cooked just right with the perfect blend of peppers, wine, coarsely cut tomatoes which made the sauce nice and thick.
The restaurant is run by Nikos, who is the chef with wife Jasmine. Their courtesy and politeness is completely genuine. You gain a real feeling that they love what they do and want the best for their customers.
The service was excellent and Nikos was keen to offer his suggestions based on what was freshest at the time, and according to our preferences.
Grada is a perfect example of how the most important factors of a restaurant are not the interior or the location, but the quality of the food and staff. From the outside, there is no way one would believe that it was one of the top eateries in the Larnaca region, but anyone who goes in soon finds out.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY: Cyprus food
WHERE: Pedias 5, Oroklini, Larnaca
CONTACT: 24 647122
PRICE: Around€25 each (starter, main and drink)
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