Restaurant review: Kitsios Tavern, Larnaca

By Andreas Vou

The town of Larnaca has a wonderful blend of both modern and ancient buildings which sit side by side in a constant reminder of both its heritage and its emergence as a vibrant place for ambitious youth. On a much smaller scale, the same situation exists on the ever-popular Makenzie beach where a number of older, more traditional establishments sit hidden between a row of bright, loud and modern beach bars.

One of those which still represents the minority of traditional restaurants is Kitsios Tavern, which lies near the midpoint of the strip. It remains an unmistakable part of Makenzie beach, keeping loyal to a modest appearance of dark wooden exterior with simple tables and chairs both inside and out.

It would be very hard to dispute that there is any better location for a traditional fish tavern on the island. The tavern is literally on the beach, a couple of metres away from the wonderful blue sea from where you can watch the regular influx of planes as they land on the nearby runway. The locals sometimes take this spectacle for granted but it really is a spectacular site which foreign visitors fully appreciate.

As it was a rather windy day, we decided to take a seat in the sheltered outside area. For starters, we asked for a number of traditional dips such as hummus, taramosalata and tahini which were brought with a generous amount of toasted bread. Personally, pitta goes far better with dip and is a more traditional choice.

Regardless of what one prefers to eat, I am a firm believer in trying what the restaurant is best known for and in this case, being at a well known fish tavern, we ordered a number of fish plates. It did not disappoint; first a plate of grilled kalamari full of taste and extremely tender. Then, grilled octopus in a lemon and olive oil sauce as well as barbecued seabream which, although slightly overcooked, went down very well, accompanied by fries and salad.

The service was quick in all instances and the staff were very polite and friendly. With around five waiters and waitresses on that day, it made it very easy to call on someone when needed.

I cannot say I regularly attend this particular restaurant but whenever I happen to be walking past it is almost full of both locals and tourists on weekends who evidently value its quality of fresh fish, as well as its top location.

There is also a wide variety of other dishes to choose from should you not be a huge fish fan. There is a traditional souvla on offer; lamb, chicken and pork, which at around €10 is extremely good value seeing as the portions are more than generous. For a ‘lighter’ alternative, their omelettes are a good choice – accompanied by fries, they also represent good value at €6.25.

There is a vast indoor seating area which I am sure that, back in the day, would have been absolutely packed but a combination of a lot more competition in the area as well as the economic crisis mean that fewer families are able to dine out regularly. Unfortunately, it is almost always empty though it has a very nostalgic feel to it with old pictures of the town on the walls and an old fashioned bar at the back.

Talking of drinks, there is just about everything you could want available. As well as a vast range of clear and dark spirits from the aforementioned bar, there are cocktails too which are highly recommended especially on a hot summer’s afternoon. The same cannot be said about desserts, though a selection of fresh fruit is available to end the meal.

The summer is a great chance to go outside and take in the fresh air and sunshine along with a fresh meal. While traditional restaurants seem to be a dying trend, Kitsios is proof that they still exist and also offer great quality food at the same time.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY: Fish and other traditional dishes
WHERE: Makenzie Beach, Larnaca
CONTACT: 24 653633
PRICE: Around €9-€15 each (meal and drink)